New facilities:
1. Make sure there are no holes in your shower pan. Have your contractor holding a piece of drywall in the pan during the construction phase. This will protect it from nails and screws, which happen to fall on the pan.
2. Make sure any debris does not block weep holes at the bottom of the drain.
3. Your installer should work no deeper layers in the cement industry. This spilled cement is the basis for the tile or marble, and should slope from the wall to the flow in a strait line with no depression.
4. As noted in Part 1 of this Article, the shower floor should be completed before installing the finished walls.
5. Have your installer seal the tile joints, you should order them with a penetrating sealer every 6 months or so sealed) (this is very simple to do and only 5 to 10 minutes. This keeps the joints watertight, and easily kept clean
In the case of a marble> Shower floor is it more important to keep sealed the entire surface. Keep in mind to ensure to ensure that the stone is thoroughly dry before sealing.
6. The tile must be cut close to the drain, so that no leaks occur.
7. Walls may crack in the corners, although it was recorded with fiberglass tape. A better system, I've found, is to reverse a vinyl corner bead and screw on the inside corners. This makes it very difficult to separate the walls to crack them ifexpansion and contraction due to temperature fluctuations or to estimate the house.
Existing shower floors
1. Keep the tiles or joints appear in the case of stone, with piercing sealer.If a gap where the marble or tile floor, the walls shall not use sealing the crack.This finally separates filled and water is running shut behind him.
2. If your word is leaking shower sometimes you can save it, if the walls and the floor is notdeteriorate and remains solid. The first thing to do is verify that the change is not the cause of leak.If is ok then the place a fan in the shower, or a small heater, dry it out and then regrout and seal joints.
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